Kikuya
(Chrysanthemum House)
SHE'S ALWAYS THERE!
Walking
down the narrow street leading to world-famous Narita-san Temple,
one often hears someone remarking, "She's always there!" And it's
true! Akiko Ishibashi ususally can be found in front of Kikuya,
a traditional Japanese restaurant, but one with a wonderful difference
from most. It's no exageration to say that Chrysanthemum House
is one of my very favorite restaurants in the entire world! I'm
Al Shaver, a retired airline captain; during my career I used to
bid to fly trips to Narita so that I could enjoy time in Narita
and at this wonderful, moderately priced restaurant.
Chrysanthemum House has been a family business for eleven generations! Akiko and Kikutaro (Spud) Ishibashi are a delightful, English-speaking couple with great senses of humor. Most days you'll find Akiko stationed outside the restaurant, welcoming customers. On the other hand, Spud (a potato is similar to taro, hence the unusual nickname!) is most likely to be in the kitchen overseeing the sushi or the tempura. My wife Ann and I have eaten so many meals there, and we've never had anything we didn't enjoy--but their broiled eel is our very favorite!
We've taken many friends to Chrysanthemum House, both Americans and Japanese, and everyone has agreed, this is a delightful place. The food is fresh, delicious, and artfully presented. You can sit on tatami mats around low tables or you can make yourself comfortable in chairs around a "normal" table.
The food is good, the price is right, but what distinguishes Chrysanthemum House from the scores of other restaurants along the old street leading to Narita-san is the people. Akiko-san always has time to answer questions or explain something. Where is the post office? What's that slimey stuff I see next door? Why do people come to this particular Temple--or is it a Shrine? What's the difference? She has the time and the patience and the vocabulary to deal with all these matters! Spud, on the other hand can be a real comedian. If you want lessons on how to speak English like a Japanese, he's your man! And if you're a Rotarian, he'd be delighted to bring you to their weekly meeting.
When I first visited Chrysanthemum House back in the mid-80s, their children were just little kids. Now daughter Mari has three sons of her own. Her brother, Kotaro, has completed his university studies and an apprenticeship in a large Tokyo restaurant. Now he says the Kikuya kitchen is his laboratory. Ask him, and he might share the results of one of his experiments with you. Recently we enjoyed slices of pickled eggplant, which he had soaked in Japanese energy-water before marinating. The tradition will continue for generations to come!
There
is a comfortable blend of familiar and formal. As I mentioned,
downstairs you can sit at a table dine Japanese style sitting
on tatami. Upstairs is a banquet facility, so don't be surprised
if you see a dozen or more salarimen in black business suits
coming down the back stairs. Such groups often combine a meal
at Kikuya with a visit to the Temple. And while you're there,
be sure to take a moment to notice Akiko's lovely floral arrangments.
You'll find them throughout the restaurant, created fresh daily.
Folks with even just a few hours at Narita Airport can easily experience the flavor of old-time Japan by visiting Chrysanthemum House and the Temple. Two trains lines run from the lower-level of the terminal to Narita City. Once you leave the train station, it is an interesting 15-minute walk down the narrow, winding street to Chrysanthemum House. Their address is 385 Nakamachi. But the best way to find it is simply walk down the road till you see Akiko (remember, "She's always there!) or one of the staff members (well, maybe not absolutely always) welcoming you inside.
Perhaps you'd even like to ask them to prepare you something to take back to your hotel room or on-board if you're just on a lay-over before winging onward. The Chrysanthemum staff also has catered events. Recently they provided Mr. Big Movie Star with his favorite taste treats on location, at his private jet or whatever. Details, please.
So, take my advice, stop by Chrysantemum House. You'll be glad you did. And one other tip from the old, eel-eating pilot, be sure to keep your seat belt fastened at all times when you're in your seat!
